HOT 4ch RTF Glider for $120....

Hey guys...

There a hot toy for the big boys here..... and its selling like hotcakes amongst the RC'ers here in Bandar. Its a 4ch glider RTF i.e. comes with 8 cell NiMH 1100mah battery & charger/ Speed400 motor/ folding prop/ 4ch FM receiver/ Transmitter/ 3 micro servos for $120 at Triple Star (Kiulap). The shape/outline reminds me of a hotliner called the 'Sundancer' but this one has a fatter airfoil, so its not really built for speed (foam wing too). Fuselage is molded plastic. Buy ! Buy! Buy!

Tried it out yesterday afternoon at the flying field for a fellow beginner flyer, enjoyed it for the first 2 mins or so and in the evening, got one for myself too. Its an excellent trainer or something relaxing to fly. Seen some of the guys here outfitted theirs already with brushless setups, Lipo and own RX/TX combo.

As for me, i have swapped out the RX with my trusty Fut R156. Gonna maiden it this afternoon, prolly together with my new Pitts S2C Bipe. Hope that it doesn't rain!

Owen,

Wow it sounds great, try to get one, may be.....

Bah AZRC, lets go for ep...adang tah main Nitro ani...karang melatup...hhahahahaha...

Buring dah ku ni ... engine 50hyper malar patah ring,

bah try out tah EP plane....probably the RTF as what owen mention atu seem to be a nice bird,

Aku on my Spitfire and you on the RTF...kitani Sprint...see who wins...hehehehehe....

Just kidding...

Looking forward for the Glider....thanks for the info Owen..!!!

Owen,

Nada discount kah you bali? We all bought it after discount at B$95.

Atan_126,

Berapa kali your engine piston ring patah ? Something wrong kali.

The price i quoted is full retail sticker price lah... in fact ada discount if you ask for it and currently they are willing to go for $100 since its after the sale period dah.

This is the second time around...ring ku patah, on the first round, my rear bearing make some kinda funny noise, then ring nya patah which also affect the piston, so i change the piston, piston ring, Rear and front crank bearing.

Run in the engin for about 4 tank on 2 turn open, 1 tank on 1.5 turn, and gradually lean out to 1 1/4 to 1 turn which takes another 3 tanks full.

Cant get the engine to tune right, especially on the idle, with 1 turn and 1 click open, engin temp at 170F,

3 months later the ring breaks again...as i can say about after approx 20 flights, HHhhhmmmmm...!!!!! Engin runs cool....and plenty of thick oil came out of the silencer at the end of every flight...so now ... I dont know...!!!!! either get another repair kit or get another engine...

Looking forward for TT53 redline... cooollll.....!!!!!!

Hmmm interesting eh....

I had my fair share of woes on the OS50SXH. In fact only two days ago i got hold of another new one cos of problems with my previous rebuilt set. Here goes the story....

Bought from new and ran only on Coolpower 15% fuel and tuned to approx 105DegC with 2000RPM max head speed governed. Did approx 8 gallons before it started to loose compression to a point it couldn't start. So a rebuild was due. Opened up engine and expected to replace bearings as typically in the forums, bearings were known to fail after a good run through, however did not find any rust of play...so was very pleased actually. Noticed that on my OS90SZH using coolpower 30% bearings rust pretty quick. Replaced the ring and sleeve and went to standard break in procedure i.e. 2 tanks on rich setting.

One day went to field to thrash the bird, noticed engine started to make weird noises i.e. clattering when cold and on low rpm but went ok after idle up to 2000RPM. It kept on claterring everytime i switch modes and come in for landing. Power was pretty good too... until i noticed that the power started sagging. i have an onboard temperature checker and the max temps were only 90DegC, so i know i was still safe and because of new ring and sleeve, i erred on the rich side until things have loosened up. Second flight, the noise was worst and stopped the engine.

Opened up engine and found conrod bushing had excessive play, so had that replaced too. This time, the engine wouldn't even start. So i got fed-up and simply bought another one. I may need to bench test this one first...since compression is very good and no more play on the conrod. But i cannot understand why it wouldnt start. Glow was OK, Carb is seen injecting fuel, engine checked and double checked... all are rebuilt the right way round. Needle opening was reset to 1.5 turns and slowly leaned out to a point it is at my normal setting i.e. 1 turn. Idle needle also the normal way....

Hmmmm..... will report again once i get this engine running on the bench....

Funny with this engine...I will try to look of a piston ring, probably give it another go....!!!! The piston look good but just alittle of Chhiped surface ....

Hi,

Just makesure that after last flying when the engine still warm, pull out the host and start the engine to idle, this will un burn fuel inside the cylinder and push out some oil to your exhaust pipe. Maybe crank it until it wont start. not to much lah.

For me I always pinch my tube to stop my engine instead of I cut my throttle from my radio. And at home I warm up and pull out my fuel host and crank it till the engine won't start

Axen,

That is my usual practise....at the end of the day , i like to keep the engine dry, keep it idle until it ran out of juice, which means burn out everything in the engine and keep it dry for storage...but yet....PATAH JUA RING KU...

I remember...the night before flight, I gave it Rich spray on with WD 40 inside the engin, and hope to prevent it from rusting...

Then the next morning, I start the engin, let it idle for a while ( about 15 sec ) then pull out the glow.

Next thing, the engine boggs, i.e. too rich caused by the WD40,,,and smells like it...then....then....thennn.....

THE ENGIN STALLS AND THE SOUND OF BROKEN METALs.......they you go ...another broken Piston ring...buuurrrriiinnngggg.....!!!!!

Alamak!! ... Do spray WD 40 inside the engine cylinder. There's are some reason that will break you piston ring. There are some people at some forum use WD 40 but only spraying back bearing and turning the shaft and they wipe it clean. But then some say's this is not good practice.

Atan,
I think WD-40 is too thin for the ring.... When you idle the engine, the piston ring friction too much between the cylinder and overheat!!!
Not only that, WD-40 will make your silicon tubing expand and will become soft then leaks.

OOOoooo....mmmmmaaaannnnn....!!!!!!! i think thats the main cause of it .... the engine was fine till the night before ... i gave it suffienct amount of this Fluid into the cycliner and the rear bearing .. which i assume to reduce the amout of wear and tear ... but infact....

Well try better next time...pakai minyak singer...this time...hehehehehehehehe

no la...think just leave it like that after every flight .. and keep it dry .. just like Axen advice..will be good enough....

Alamak........!!!!!

I will get a new piston ring today...

When rebuilding engines, use Tornado after-run oil... i've used them back in the days of rebuilding car engines... very light and provides protection from rust.

owen wrote:

Hey guys...

There a hot toy for the big boys here..... and its selling like hotcakes amongst the RC'ers here in Bandar. Its a 4ch glider RTF i.e. comes with 8 cell NiMH 1100mah battery & charger/ Speed400 motor/ folding prop/ 4ch FM receiver/ Transmitter/ 3 micro servos for $120 at Triple Star (Kiulap). The shape/outline reminds me of a hotliner called the 'Sundancer' but this one has a fatter airfoil, so its not really built for speed (foam wing too). Fuselage is molded plastic. Buy ! Buy! Buy!

Hey wassup dude,
Just want to know whether the shop still sells this now this year.
Andy